Timelapses

Time-lapses are images taken at regular intervals over time. They are a very powerful method to illustrate biological processes such as cell division, bacterial growth... They are almost exclusively done on live samples kept in appropriate conditions. 

The key variables in microscope timelapses are:

  • Sample preparation – How the sample is mounted, labeled, or stained

  • Temperature & environment – For live samples, conditions like temperature, humidity, and CO₂ levels affect biological processes

  • Time interval and duration – How often images are captured and the total length of imaging to capture the full process of interest

  • Imaging settings (magnification, illumination, detection) – Determines the level of detail visible (resolution vs field of view, illumination intensity, exposure time, photo-toxicity...)

  • Focus & stability – The sample must be and stay in focus for the full duration.

  • Processing data - Processing timelapse data can be challenging

We will review here this information below


Sample preparation



Temperature & Environment


Time Interval and Duration

How often should you capture images?
The time interval (or acquisition frequency) between images depends on the event you want to observe.

According to the Nyquist-Shannon theorem, to capture a process without losing information, you must sample at least twice as fast as the highest frequency of the event.

Example: Imagine observing a bicycle wheel rotating at 1 turn per second:

  • If you look once per second, the valve always appears in the same position—you wouldn’t even notice the wheel is turning.

  • If you look twice per second, you see the valve in its original position and on the opposite side. You know the wheel is turning, but not the direction.

  • If you look more than twice per second, you can accurately determine both the wheel’s speed and direction.

Going back to timelapse microscopy for example with bacterial division (e.g., E. coli), which occurs roughly every 20 minutes, you should image at least once every 10 minutes. To be cautious and ensure nothing is missed, a 5-minute interval is often preferable.


Experiment Duration

The duration of your timelapse should be long enough to capture the entire process you want to study, including what happens before and after it occurs.

  • Before the event: Recording for a short period before the process starts allows the system to settle and ensures that any initial fluctuations or instability are captured.
  • After the event: Continuing to record after the process is complete shows how the system returns to a resting state or reveals any secondary effects.
In short, your experiment should cover the full timeline of interest—from baseline, through the main event, to post-event behavior—so that the story of the process is fully captured. 

Imaging should be done more than 2 times faster than the faster event you want to detect.


Imaging settings

Phototoxicity is the most critical factor to control during a timelapse experiment. Be sure to consult the comprehensive blog post dedicated to.

Focus & Stability

After sample care (environment and phototoxicity), focus stability is probably the biggest problem with timelapse imaging. Most microscope loose focus over time. This phenomenon called drift occurs naturally because of gravity. This phenomenon can be quite strong especially when the instrument is turned on. It is strongly recommended to turn on the microscope for about 3 hours before processing with an important timelapse experiment.

Some microscope includes a laser based technology that ensure a reliable measurement of the distance between the objective and the sample. This measurement is used to compensate any drift occurring with time. Interestingly the companies have different names for the same technology:

  • Perfect Focus for Nikon
  • TrueFocus for Evident/Olympus
  • Definite Focus for Zeiss
  • Adaptive Focus Control for Leica
  • PureFocus for Prior Scientific
  • fCRISP Autofocus System from Applied Scientific Instrument

regardless this technology rely on periodic measurement the distance between the objective and the sample to compensate for naturally occurring drift.

Processing timelapse data

We strongly recommend to save raw acquisition files during acquisition using the proprietary format from the acquisition software. You can then use FIJI to open and process it.  While scientific analysis must be performed on raw data, timelapses are also used to illustrate a process. For that purposes, timelapse can be processed to improve portability, compress size, better interoperability etc... We will provide some clues to that purposes. 

Not sure what is FIJI?

Feel free to check our Microscopy software list to learn about it.

Raw data file
1024 x 1022 16-bit 9601 frames -> 19.6 GB !

Reducing bit-depth

In an image each pixel is storing an information relative to brightness (for greyscale images). This information is usually an integer between 0 and X. The higher X, the higher number of possible values can be address to that pixel and thus the higher storage space is required to store this number. This is called bit-depth. A 8-bit image can store 255 value for each pixel. a 16-bit image can store 65000 values for each pixel etc... unfortunately human eyes are not able to appreciate more than few dozen of grey level. So reducing bit-depth is a easiest way to reduce the size of your data with actually changing how the images look.

In FIJI:

  • Drop the raw image file into the FIJI bar to import it

  • Select Image>Adjust>Brightness and contrast to open the Brightness and Contrast windows (Crtl+Shift+C)

  • Click Auto or adjust the brightness and contrast how you like it

  • Select Image>Type>8-bit to convert your image into 8-bit format (for multicolor images you should use RGB instead)

How many shades of grey can you identify?

Please test yourself here by selecting ALL the squares that do not match the background. You need to submit your answers 8 times to get your result. My best was 42...

 

1024 x 1022 8-bit 9601 frames -> 9.8 GB

Cropping

Cropping your image to your region of interest will effectively reduce the file size without affecting your resolution.

In FIJI:

  • Click on the rectangle selection tool

  • Click and drag while maintaining the shift key (this key will lock the aspect ratio 1:1 : square) around your region of interest

  • Select Image>Crop to crop your image

Cropped to 900 x 900 8-bit 9601 frames -> 7.6 GB

Downsizing

Another option consist in resizing (downsizing) your image.  This means converting a number of pixel to a smaller number which effectively reduce the file storage size but also the resolution.

In FIJI:

  • Image>Adjust>Size

  • Check the following settings:

    • Constrain aspect ratio

    • Average when downsizing

    • Interpolation: Bicubic

  • Enter the number of pixel for the height

    • 500 for web usage

    • 720 for presentation

    • 1080 for full HD

  • Click OK

900 x 900 downsized to 500 x 500 8-bit 9601 frames -> 2.3 GB 

Timestamps

Timestamps are critical information because they indicate what is the real speed of the event that are being displayed. Without it, the observer has no idea if it is a fast process that is slowed down or vice-versa. Timestamps are usually stored within the raw file metadata, to read it:

In FIJI:

  • Image>Properties...

  • Look at the frame interval
    (if it is not present you should complain to the company that has provided the acquisition software)

In the example the frame interval is 3 seconds.

In FIJI:

  • Image>Stacks>Series Labeler

  • Select the following settings
    • Stack Type: Time series
    • label Format: Digital
    • Label unit: s
    • Start: 0
    • Interval: 3
    • Every n-th: 1
    • Localization preset: Lower right
    • Select Background
    • Select Previw
    • Click OK

An alternative in FIJI:

  • Image>Stacks>Time Stamper

  • This will add the timestamps as an overlay (floating layer that is independant of your image). You may need to Flatten the overlay to actually write the timestampes on the image itself. If so Image>Overlay>Flatten

900 x 900 downsized to 500 x 500 8-bit 9601 frames with labelled timestamps 



Encode to a video format

You can (and should) encode your file in a video format for an easy visualization. Severla options are available, my suggestions are HandBrake and FFMPEG.

Handbrake

Handbrake is a user friendly cross platorm free software to encode video files. It is powerfull fast and easy. https://handbrake.fr/downloads.php

Install it

If required install 

Drop your AVI file

Select your parameter: Usually
Dans Video
Codec xH264
FPS: Depends how long is your video
Constant quality 22

Audio 


Audio 
No Audio

Click Start encode

Normalizing intensity (antiflickering)

Stabilizing images (registration)





Reslicing

Reslicing is reducing the number of frames in your timelapse file.